Look closely at the traditionally stripy gathered fabric and you’ll notice the different textures of the two stripes: one smooth (usually the lighter stripe) and one coarser in texture (often a pale blue). Invented in India, the durable cloth became known by its Persian sobriquet, shir o shekar, meaning ‘milk and sugar’, in reference to its crease-free combination of smooth and rough pinstripes.

Nowadays, instead of silk, cottons are commonly used, and a skilful alternation of tighter and looser warps are utilised.” This is a technique known as a slack tension-weave, where one of the stripes of cotton is woven more tightly than the other, causing it to pucker.

Look closely at the traditionally stripy gathered fabric and you’ll notice the different textures of the two stripes: one smooth (usually the lighter stripe) and one coarser in texture (often a pale blue). Invented in India, the durable cloth became known by its Persian sobriquet, shir o shekar, meaning ‘milk and sugar’, in reference to its crease-free combination of smooth and rough pinstripes.

Nowadays, instead of silk, cottons are commonly used, and a skilful alternation of tighter and looser warps are utilised.” This is a technique known as a slack tension-weave, where one of the stripes of cotton is woven more tightly than the other, causing it to pucker.